Wednesday, June 07, 2006

The Madness of the King


Yesterday I made a pilgrimage every Wagnerite must do once in a lifetime, to a region of the Bavarian Alps south of Munich where the landscape is alarmingly reminiscent of the beautiful Pacific Northwest. It was a lovely day, and an adventure principally characterized by sheer physical beauty, so I thought I'd let my pictures do most of the talking for me here.

This Wagner-connection is all about a Wagnerite who was obsessed with LOHENGRIN, which (like MACBETH) is an opera where you oughtn't say the name. What if I didn't say the king's name in this blog? You all know who it is; most of you have probably been to these places before. You don't say the name, just as the Hebrews don't pronounce the name of God, because it's impudent to name that over which you have no power--like putting a frame around the chaotic vastness of nature.



We went first to Schloss Linderhof, and got there just in time to see the fountain do its thing.



Linderhof is this king's attempt at making his own little Versailles. Well, that's a nice idea; but I knew Louis 14, and L2, you're no L14!



It's really absurd, how overdone this false late 19th-doing late 16th century Baroque style is. I promise I'll never again complain about any of the wealthy mansions out in North Bend, or Medina for that matter, after seeing the excesses of this man.



One thing that's fun about visiting it is the wild Babel of languages down there. You have to go on a guided tour, and it isn't cheap; but some of the tours are in German, some in English, and others everybody is listening to a headset in THEIR language. I'm assuming this king was as narrow-mindedly, xenophobically German as his favorite composer and mostly spoke German in his home; but I don't really know.



Anyways, we went there, then to Oberammergau, then to Neuschwanstein. (It was a busy day!) We saw Hohenschwangau in the distance, where it was being renovated, but didn't get up there. But these were enough!



Now, that last picture (and the final one below) were taken from the charming "Marienbrucke", a few minute's climb ABOVE the castle. This bridge crosses something called the Poellatschlucht, and I just like to say the word 'schlucht', meaning gorge: schlucht, schlucht, schlucht...



I'd jot down here my own skeptical reflections on this incredibly depressing, tragic story...but I gotta go catch a train out of Germany (hope to blog again in a few days!), and this blog is acting weird 'cause I have more pictures but it won't post them. This last one was taken by Anna, a young Muscovite who risked life and limb to climb with me way above the Marienbrucke in search of the perfect view of the castle.

Tuesday, June 06, 2006

Was Deutsch ist, und wahr und rein...

My brief stay in Nürnberg took me right to the heart of lots of the big questions: what was Wagner really on about, what being German is all about, and why was I nervous when I first showed up in Germany a week ago. Some rambling thoughts on these questions:

Wagner. I came to Nürnberg in particular because it’s the location of perhaps my favorite Wagner opera, MEISTERSINGER VON NURNBERG. (It’s hard to pick a favorite Wagner opera. PARSIFAL could very easily be my favorite, as well. And do you consider the RING one opera? That’s crazy.) MEISTERSINGER is unusual among the Wagner operas, we always say, because it’s set on Planet Earth (the others having more mythic/supernatural elements). That’s probably not really the case; the biggest difference, I think, is that MEISTERSINGER is broadly diatonic. That’s why it seems to have more to do with Planet Earth: he’s writing in a musical language which, although distinctly Wagnerian, is far closer to the musical language the rest of humanity uses than some of his other operas (to me, TRISTAN and PARSIFAL are the most ‘Wagnerian’ sounding operas, if that means anything).

MEISTERSINGER is set on Planet Earth, without any magic except the kind that happens on a Midsummer Night when a bunch of young lovers get very confused about the proper course of action, and maybe there were fairies involved. (See? Just like MIDSUMMER NIGHT'S DREAM!) The only very specific location is the first act scene in St. Katherine’s church, which was destroyed during the war (like most of Nürnberg) and hasn’t really been rebuilt. There’s an outdoor stage now on that spot, with part of the original wall behind it:




The second act and first scene of the third act take place in or near Hans Sachs’ house, which I suppose one could find, although I didn’t. I did find this statue of him:



The final scene takes place in a field on the banks of the Pegnitz river, which winds its way through the walled city. I didn’t find any fields still existing, but it’s a lovely river, and indeed an incredibly lovely city, as these pictures indicate.







MEISTERSINGER is an incredibly lovely opera, because it’s Wagner’s most upbeat, optimistic work, unambiguously positive, outrageously funny, and the fullest expression ever of his really utopian humanism. Anyone who thinks Wagner is all about seeking death through sex must remember that MEISTERSINGER suggests a different value-system. Tristan (the man) is for me Wagner’s ludicrous selfishness pushed to its inevitably nihilistic conclusion. Anyone who loves himself that much, and has such disregard for others, will end up in Kareol clutching his wound in agony. But MEISTERSINGER is not about championing extreme individuality, it’s about community. That’s why the music is so diatonic, and contrapuntal—there are rules in place so that all these different melodies can live together in the same piece of music, as there are rules governing human behavior which allow a human community to exist—nay, to flourish.

In the RING, Wagner objects strenuously to a world based on rules; the rules, symbolized by Wotan’s spear, are the cause of lots of misery. And in MEISTERSINGER, the rules—symbolized by the Mastersingers’ endless musical forms and conventions and procedures and patterns—cause the protagonists terrible headaches, but Wagner doesn’t break the spear in MEISTERSINGER the way he does in the RING. In the end, the rules get validation and respect even as they are superseded by innovation and an outburst of genius that figures out a new way to do things.

I’ve got it, I can tell you the big difference between MEISTERSINGER and the rest of Wagner: most of his plots avoid anything mundane, being occupied rather with the divine/mythic/symbolic/weighted with tragic import. It’s one of the things that many people find ‘heavy’ about Wagner, how it seems to have so little to do with real life. But MEISTERSINGER is all about the little stuff—the specifics of how do you write a song, how do you make a shoe, what do you say to a pretty girl you spotted in the first row on your way out of church. I remember once watching a video of MEISTERSINGER (this was years ago, back in the distant days of video) after a long ‘retreat’ day spent with the board and directors of Seattle Opera, analyzing and discussing the future of our Young Artists Program. Boring stuff, mundane stuff, stuff you do at work. And how astonished I was to find that Wagner had set the exact same discussion to music, at the end of MEISTERSINGER Act One, as all the Mastersingers are arguing about what to do with the next generation of singers, about whether the public should have any voice in the future of art, about the proper relationship between tradition and innovation.

In my real life example, we’d been talking about opera singing; in MEISTERSINGER, Wagner is really talking about setting words to music, the writing of songs, the relationship between sound and sense. But the discussion applies to basically every human activity. The Mastersingers are crafting songs, but they’re all craftsmen in their other lives: cobblers, bakers, tailors, etc. And everything they make, they do by hand, with loving care and craft. Because that’s a crucial part of Wagner’s Utopian vision: HOMO FABER, man the maker, a vital relationship between who you are and what you make. Whether it’s a car, a cake, a building, a chair, a theatrical production, a book, a website, a student smarter, a sick person healthier, a nation stronger or more peaceful or more prosperous, WHAT WE MAKE=WHO WE ARE. Everything created counts as a work of art; everything manufactured thus deserves care and respect, and ought to be both beautiful and functional. It’s Tolkien’s thing with the elves, as I mentioned before. Being extra-human, everything the elves MAKE is somehow extra-special; elf-cloaks help you hide from your enemies, elf-bread is really light and unusually filling, elf-rope is somehow intelligent. If it’s magic, it’s the same as the magic of MEISTERSINGER; Walther ends up writing a song so good it is magical. The specifics of the magic are kept vague, in these kinds of stories, because we mustn’t think too literally about what the story is saying—metaphor is king. The great artistry of MEISTERSINGER lies in the layering and echoing of metaphors, images like John the Baptist, David, Eve, and the Garden—images we already know and connect with feelings and stories, and then deployed throughout MEISTERSINGER in a contrapuntal explosion of cross-references and metaphorical echoes. Wagner never took as much care MAKING anything as he did MEISTERSINGER.

I think it’s a valid point about a utopian society, or indeed any dream of a strong human community. Especially in our world, post-industrialization, where most makers are so far removed from the product they are making. I have a strange perspective on this issue because I work for an opera company, which is still operating more or less (disastrously, as far as our budget is concerned) according to a medieval-trade-guild-type structure: everything made for an opera production is made especially by skilled craftspeople in our Seattle Opera ‘school’. All the costumes, all the props, all the set pieces, every single supratitle lovingly hand-crafted. That’s great, that’s how to guarantee a good product—don’t have too many middlemen. It’s true that you in the audience don’t necessarily know which of our cutters made each particular costume; but there’s only about 20 of them, as opposed to when you buy a pair of jeans at the Gap, where you really have no way of knowing which little enslaved Asian monkey-child made that particular pair of pants. Frankly, the old Nürnberg guilds worked the same way: a crafted product (an alter-piece, or a portrait of Luther, or whatever) came from ‘the school of’ Lucas Cranach the Elder, or Albrecht Dürer, or whoever, it wasn’t necessarily created by the individual master artist himself, but by his team. If the Gap can have a signature logo, it’s certainly possible for such a team to have an identifiable style.

The problem is, there’s little room in our world today for anything that doesn’t make a profit, and craft of this kind is never going to make much of a profit. Profit comes from mass-producing your product very cheaply and making sure that everybody buys one; and that’s not what MEISTERSINGER is about. Honestly, the system presented in MEISTERSINGER makes far more sense to me; it seems sustainable, unlike the profit-driven system. Eventually, Planet Earth will run out of hidden reserves of gasoline, and then people with cars will really be in trouble (we may very well have melted the ice caps and drowned everybody, or destroyed mankind with nuclear war, well before that point, it’s true); what happens when the profit-driven economy runs out of potential profit?

Anyways, I can’t ramble on about MEISTERSINGER without pointing out the problem with it. It’d be such a lovely opera—if only Hans Sachs, Wagner’s fantasy vision of the best man he himself could possibly be, didn’t give that stupid speech at the end, warning all of Germany: “Watch out for Jews and for the French! They’re up to no good! Only trust your German masters!” But yes, it’s here, in this opera, in that one little speech, that Wagner really does sound like a Nazi. Sometimes you cut it, when you put MEISTERSINGER on today; oftentimes you have the guy sing it, but somehow undercut it with the staging.

My trip to Nürnberg gave me a slightly different perspective on the problem. A couple things I’ve learned recently:

The Nazis didn’t look evil. To Americans, the Nazis have become cartoon stereotypes of evil. When you call someone a Nazi, as an insult, it seems to most people an overstatement—maybe the person is a jerk, but no one in our world today, it seems, could ever be quite as evil as the lowest-ranking Nazi. We’ve seen so many movies featuring wildly evil Nazis, stories of suspense where the very presence of a Nazi onscreen chills the blood and makes you tense; and the history has been taught so glibly, in most of our schools, that I think it’s hard for many of us to realize: the really dangerous thing about evil is that it can be incredibly seductive. It can look just the same as good. Much of what the Nazis stood for we might applaud: strong individuals, strong communities, order, discipline, security, etc. Remember that the common man-in-the-street hadn’t read 'Mein Kampf', probably didn’t really understand the Nazi political agenda, and certainly didn’t know about the mass murders and genocides. Similarly, the average American today understands that we’re at war; but the media is doing a wonderful job of protecting us from seeing the truth of that war, and we haven’t begun to feel the economic impact. When you are in a group, are you honestly good at noticing when a terrible decision is being made? And in that situation, are you strong enough to stand up and speak out against the decision? And brave enough to sever your ties with the group, if no one pays heed to what you are saying?

The Jews were emancipated too quickly. Take heed, gays! It was Richard Wagner who said it: “We weren’t ready for the Jews, they were freed too quickly.” Remember, the Jews had been kept in ghettoes for thousands of years in Germany and across Europe, and it was Napoleon (and behind him, the philosophers of the French Enlightenment) who ‘emancipated’ European Jewry in the 1810s—made it possible, at long last, for Jews to have the same rights and opportunities as anyone else. In Paris, this went over great; in places where the Enlightenment thought hadn’t yet reached, this didn’t go over so well. And Naziism was at heart a radical conservative movement, fantasizing about recreating a society like the one in MEISTERSINGER—so “Hey, you Jews! Back into your ghettoes!” Or worse, much much worse, with the new technology and weird new godless philosophies that make it okay to kill human beings. The point is, it was 120 years after the emancipation that this backlash happened with such appalling severity. These things take time, lots and lots of time. Perhaps food for thought to gays impatient with the slow process of acquiring civil rights, pushing for legalized gay marriage, and so forth. A generation or two ago, gays were as vigorously despised a minority as Jews ever were in Germany. Things have come a long way; but when you move too fast the backlash can be fearsome. The generation that’s currently in high school in America seems (to me at least, an occasional visitor in our nations' high schools) to be considerably less homophobic than even my generation (I graduated from high school in 1991). Slow and steady wins the race. Don’t give up any ground; but wait until our parents’ generation are all dead. When the people graduating from high school today are in their 60s (say in 2045) maybe the world will be ready for so radical a restructuring of human society. By then, same-sex partnerships will probably be a much-needed method of dealing with overpopulation!

Unifying? Great! Why stop at a nation? Nürnberg has a big wall around the old city, a reminder of its long-held status as the ‘free, imperial’ city. That is, there was no such thing as the country of Germany until the 1870s; there was a loose affiliation of states, sometimes called the “Holy Roman Empire”, and variously administered from different spots, but Nürnberg was a popular site for an imperial headquarters since it belonged to no bigger kingdom but was a free city that ran itself. The push toward German unification began in earnest after the fall of Napoleon, when Wagner was a little kid; he got involved, everybody got involved, and after the Franco-Prussian war (and some little war in the 1870s between Bavaria and Prussia, the two big chunks that came together to make up the new nation of Germany—Prussia won, that’s why the capitol is Berlin) there was for the first time a legitimate German nation. But if they were a serious nation, they needed an empire, like the French and the Dutch and the English and the Spanish; and certainly Hitler’s agenda included further imperial aggression—his idea was to expand the German reich to conquer the entire globe, eliminate all the vermin races, and have Germans in charge everywhere (with some of the other people kept alive as slaves). All of which follows, in a horribly logical progression, from that initial push for unification of an assemblage of diverse states.

This is why I’m uncomfortable. Now of course America basically defeated Germany in both world wars, and we got the world empire that the Germans wanted. In fact, it worked much the same way, because in the 1860s as Germany was uniting as a nation, so was America; from a loose confederacy of states to one vast federalized behemoth, with imperial ambitions. And while we haven’t been as bloodthirsty and violent in our territorial aggression (or as insanely genocidal) as the Germans were in World War II, the basic American attitude—that we’re better than everybody else, that all of them should learn to do everything our way, and that inevitably, eventually, THEY WILL—this is eerily reminiscent of what was happening here. Germany reminds me of America in many, many ways: both nations are vast and complicated, full of different kinds of environments, different kinds of communities, different kinds of people. Hard to make generalizations about these places! Both really love cars (although I think Americans like the convenience of cars, whereas the Germans like and take pride in making them). If I had to make crude generalizations about the German national character (I went to a fascinating exhibit today at Nürnberg’s Germanisches Museum, all about “What is German?") I’d say they are big on order, on rules and restrictions, to contrast them with the Danes, who are really big on individual freedom. I think there’s something reassuring to a German about ‘Dies ist verboten/das ist verboten’, a kind of security that comes from knowing the limits. I find it kind of annoying, but then again I’m much more Danish in this than I ever knew. I discovered this about myself when the smoking ban went into effect in Seattle last winter; although I’d been terribly anti-smoking, prejudiced against smokers, for years, now that legally they were second-class citizens, I FELT without knowing why exactly that what we were doing was wrong, that they should be allowed to smoke if they feel like killing themselves, that I had no right whatsoever to tell them how to behave. It’s not exactly an American maverick/individual thing; it’s about valuing freedom, honest-to-goodness freedom to do anything whatsoever (short of harming another) more than anything. Which is what I value, although I don’t know if it’s a good thing. And that uncertainty--plus being an American--makes me nervous.

Monday, June 05, 2006

Back to Bayreuth

I spent the day today scurrying around Bayreuth, the little town in Franconia (part of Bavaria) where Wagner built his Festspielhaus. It was a holiday—Pfingster, a Christian celebration of something-or-other, I never quite understood, but it had to do with the Holy Ghost saying “Hey, world! Jesus made it to heaven!” and all of Germany was taking the day off (the country is nowadays 1/3 Catholic, 1/3 Protestant, 1/3 mezzo-nothing. And it sounds like very few go to church with any regularity; but they do like to party). Luckily for me, the Richard Wagner Museum in Bayreuth has no interest in Christian holidays, so not only was it open, but I more or less had the place to myself.

I’d been there once before; 10 years ago, in the summer of 1996, when through the good graces of Perry Lorenzo and Verena Kossodo of the New York Wagner Society I managed to get a seat at a performance of GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG. And I remember going to the Villa Wahnfried Wagner Museum with Perry, back when we were both young and idealistic. Wandering through it again today, it’s amazing to me how much has happened since then—in those days there was no Seattle Opera Young Artists Program, I hadn’t really written any supertitles, and the world knew nothing of the Zambello TRISTAN, the Stephen Wadsworth RING, or the Israel/Rochaix PARSIFAL. Not to mention THEFT OF THE GOLD. And we didn’t understand the first thing about PowerPoint, or projectors, or dvds, or even laptops for that matter; I don’t think I went online that entire month-long trip. My father was alive, and Elizabeth Stetson, and a number of other people we know and love Now, on the other side of all those things, it was good to go back to Bayreuth and think: what next?

To begin with, there’s the Seattle Opera Wagner Competition, this August, brainchild of the great Rebecca Chawgo. It’s a more formal way of doing what Speight Jenkins has always been so good at doing: spotting baby Wagner singers and trying to steer them in the right direction. Our Young Artists Program is all about the 20-something singers; the Wagner Competition, which may become a regular thing at Seattle Opera, will focus on the 30-somethings who have the potential to become Wagner singers (because let’s face it, not all singers do). This summer we’ll hear 10 of these people, in a program that features each of them in a solo; and a panel of judges will award a generous prize to the top female and top male vocalist, to be used for further study and training. So think ‘American Idol’ with lots more winged helmets than usual.

Next, there’s...well, why should I go on telling you what’s next? You’ll find out in time! Instead, let me say briefly, about Villa Wahnfried (left), Wagner’s house was built in the 1870s when he chose Bayreuth for his festival theater and moved here with his entourage of insane hangers-on and family; it was destroyed in the war, and eventually rebuilt as a museum. Unlike the Goethe-haus museum in Weimar, it isn’t really set up “as it was when Wagner lived here”; instead, you walk through each room according to an order and follow the story of his life, from weird adventure to weird adventure and opera to opera, with lots of pictures and blurbs and facsimiles of original manuscripts and what-not. I wish more of the pictures here were available generally, because many of them are just amazing. When you get to Wagner’s death, they have the tiny, nasty couch on which he died and his death mask; and then the exhibit starts going through the Bayreuth productions of his operas, with truckloads of designs and pictures especially from the early years. When you get to the more recent stuff, there’s a room with several computer terminals; all the Bayreuth productions of everything since 1951 are catalogued on a fascinating computer archive, which cross-references ever performance by opera, calendar, and performers. There are zillions of pictures, biographical entries, sound clips, and video clips; I only wish this archive were either a) available online or b) published in computer disc form!

Behind the house you find the double grave of Wagner and Cosima. And if you walk from the house through the town, past the train station, and up the famous ‘Green Hill’ you get to the Festspielhaus, which was closed tighter than a drum today (I suspect they’re in early rehearsals for the operas which will open at the end of the summer). Still, it’s a fascinating building, even from the outside—originally intended as a temporary building, which would be torn down after the first festival in 1876, but it has survived to this day and is still one of the world’s greatest and most sophisticated theaters. The whole concept of ‘Regie-theater’—director’s theater, where the audience doesn’t see the time and place where the composer set the action—that all began here, in 1951, when Wagner’s grandson Wieland wanted to re-open the Festival and continue performing his grandfather’s operas, but needed to disassociate them from the Nazi stigma that had gotten attached to those swords and horned helmets. So Wieland changed the time and place (he made it extremely vague, the visuals done very simply and most of the interest in the lighting) and suddenly a) the Wagner operas were relevant to the new post-Nazi age, b) they were suddenly universal myths, not solely German myths, and c) the job of the stage director suddenly got a hell of a lot more interesting than it had ever been. Since then, perhaps we’ve gone too far (the most recent Bayreuth Parsifal allegdly stars projected time-lapse video footage of a dead, decaying rabbit) but if you’re a singer it’s nice not to have to wear those stupid helmets.

Sunday, June 04, 2006

The Thuringia-Saxony Axis

I’m way behind on blogging my trip adventures, so here very quickly (yeah, right! This is Wagner) are a few memories of my recent escapades:

Leipzig. I went to Leipzig technically because it’s an important Richard Wagner spot—he was born and went to school there. (Actually, they moved to Dresden when he was still a baby, and then sent him back to high school and university in Leipzig when he was about 13. He was a terrible student and basically flunked out of every class he ever took.) But I found the Wagner pickings pretty slim; there’s a plaque on the building where he was born, which is now a low-budget department store.



Wagner would be pleased, I’m sure, to know that outside the place where he was born there’s a big rubber contraption; you wrap bungie cords around your children and watch them bounce upon and down on trampolines for a while, and when they come out they’re more docile. If only somebody had done that to him when he was a kid, we all might have been a lot better off!




The real tourist draw to Leipzig is not Wagner, but the others: Johann Sebastian Bach in particular, but Schumann and Mendelssohn and others also spent much of their lives here. Bach was cantor for many years at the St. Thomas church, left (and Wagner was expelled from the St. Thomas school behind the church). A particularly great experience was hearing a Bach cantata sung in the church, as part of Bach Fest ’06, by the really wonderful team working there. I could understand most of the sermon, too, which shows you how my German works: talk to me about God and spirit and ghosts and dragons and swords and I’m fine; try to explain to me how to use the laundromat and I’m so hopeless this very sweet girl ended up washing all my clothes for me, while a stood there gawking like an idiot. (The point is: the clothes are clean! That’s what counts.)

As I mentioned, yesterday turned out to be Goth day in Leipzig.



I got more of the story from two university students today, who were very excited that all these Goths were descending upon their city from all over Germany (although neither felt compelled to dress all in black themselves). I remain dubious about the whole enterprise. The fun thing for me, about the Stadt Fest in Leipzig, was passing a booth where this guy in a Hun helmet (that’s a Germanic tribe, not a Viking or Scandinavian tribe—get it right!) served me some mead-beer.



Now, I’ve often had mead-wine (I seem to remember forcing many of you to drink it, much against your will); but this was closer to what the Vikings would have been drinking, basically a very, very sweet beer made entirely from honey. I tell you, travel is all about pushing back boundaries, having new experiences, eating and drinking things you’ve never before dared to try.


Weimar. I blathered here at great length the other day about seeing the Midsummer Night’s Dream here in Weimar; this is a lovely city (much sleepier than Leipzig) with an incredible theater and lots of Goethe stuff. (No Wagner stuff that I’ve found, although he came through here off and on.) Goethe made Weimar the headquarters of the German enlightenment in the late 18th-century, and just as he is (to me) the central writer in the German language, so the town to me typifies what is best about Germany. It’s small, pretty, clean, well-laid out, and has far more than its fair share of culture. In addition the theater, and lots of bookstores, and museums where Goethe and Schiller used to live (Goethe’s house, above, is set up exactly as it was when he died in 1850, and open to the public), and old and new art museums, there’s the Bauhaus museum (yep, they were here) as well as the castle of the Dukes of Saxe-Weimar. Tonight I didn’t feel like I’d be successful following a performance of Schiller’s Maria Stuarda, so I went instead to the little art-house Kino in downtown Weimar—(it was SIFF withdrawal, I’ll admit it)—where they’d never heard of Da Vinci Code or X3. And congratulate me on doing a pretty good job of following the dubbed-into-German Spanish/Argentine old-folks-fall-in-love flick, Fred and Elsa. But while you’re at it, don’t forget the historical role Weimar played as the center of the ill-fated Weimar Republic, back in the 1920s. So even though it’s not technically on the Wagner tour of Germany, I thought it was well worth a stop. And the Goethe-haus was a great way to foreshadow tomorrow’s trip to Villa Wahnfried, Wagner’s house in Bayreuth!

Eisenach.
I took a quick day trip out to Eisenach, the small town beneath the hill upon which towers the mighty WARTBURG.



It’s a huge tourist trap, and really not all that exciting; but I had to go, since this is the location of Tannhäuser, one of the few Wagner operas I’ve never titled—and one of his most German operas. (The other is Tannhäuser’s companion-piece, Meistersinger, and we’ll go there next.) The Wartburg’s claim to fame, apart from its scenic location, rests on four points of history: a) St. Elisabeth of Hungary married the Thuringian king and moved here in the high middle ages, where she was associated with all sorts of miracles and did good Catholic saint-type things. b) The famous battle of the minnesingers, a sort of medieval German rap-artist kick-dust-on-the-other-guy’s-pants “I’m a better singer than you” championship was famously held here. c) Martin Luther, fleeing the Catholics, was given sanctuary here and wrote the first ever German translation of the New Testament, thereby starting the Reformation; and d) in the 19th century, Romantics like Wagner got obsessed in old German history and so Wagner wrote his Tannhäuser, hopelessly garbling the already ahistorical legends that had started to spring up about this place. Below, the room from which Martin Luther founded the Protestant church.



I’ve always had a peculiar relationship with Tannhäuser; I wonder what will happen when (if?) I ever get an opportunity to do some titles for it. The overture has been a favorite piece of mine since childhood. But I never particularly cared for the rest of the opera; always thought the music was a tad staid and the story stupid, in fact, until I finally saw it onstage a few years ago at the Met, in the old Schenk/Schneider-Siemssen production from the late ‘70s (their first Met production, and the one that indicated to the Met that this team was good at doing campy Disney-medieval Wagner). My problem had always been disliking the characters and the basic set-up. Tannhäuser, the great medieval German songwriter/singer, needs to choose between two women, and thereby choose between the sacred and the profane, between the classical antiquity of Greece and the medieval Christianity of Germany. When the opera begins, he’s living as the love slave of the goddess Venus, who hangs out with a bunch of fauns and nymphs in a grotto underneath the Hörselberge near Eisenach. The idea is, when Christianity conquered Europe, the old gods—all these mythological characters from ancient Greece—simply went underground, where they continue their revels, and the local Christians fear and hate them. Wagner was fascinated by what happens when new gods replace old gods, and deals with this question in Tannhäuser, Lohengrin, Tristan, and of course the Ring and Parsifal. (If the issue comes up in Meistersinger, it must be in the great hymn to Sachs as Martin Luther.) Anyways, the idea is you’ve got a strictly conservative Christian society above ground (think GWB and his junta) and, below ground, those of us who live on Capitol Hill. I didn’t actually make it into the caves, but here’s a bad shot of the Hörselberge, taken from a moving train:



But Tannhäuser is bored of the sensual pleasures of Venus and goes back up to earth, where his old girlfriend the saintly Elisabeth of Hungary is still faithful to him. So faithful that even when it becomes clear to everyone upstairs that he’s been a sinner—that he’s been downstairs, to Venus’s land—Elisabeth loves him so much that she prays herself to death, and he is somehow redeemed.

Now I’ve always thought Venus and Elisabeth were two pretty lame images of women, and I also felt that Tannhäuser (like many another Wagnerian hero, and like Wagner himself) was a bit of an ass. It’s never made any sense to me, to try to separate out your sexual feelings from any other kind of love; and I don’t quite buy the basic world-view of the opera, which seems to be that what Tannhäuser has done is wrong (the way I find what Siegmund and Sieglinde do revolting, no matter how much I’m cheering at the end of the Walküre first act). I find the story, on the surface, a lot of fuss about nothing. When I faced Tannhäuser’s dilemma myself, many years ago, I moved out of the conservative midwest and never looked back.

But when I saw the opera live, for the first time, I noticed that a) I really liked the music, that what was conventional and predictable on the page nevertheless works in the theater and b) for me, the central character was the baritone, Wolfram von Eschenbach, another minnesinger (who in real life wrote the amazing Parzival poem which partially inspired Wagner’s last opera) who is friend to Tannhäuser and in unrequited, unconsummated love for Elisabeth. At the end of the opera, Wolfram stands center stage, with the corpse of the sinner Tannhäuser to his right and the corpse of the saint Elisabeth to his left, and it’s wonderful because he stands for us, neither saints nor terrible sinners most of us, but needing in each of our lives to weave our way between the demands of the body and the demands of the spirit, between good and evil, between desire, self-denial, fulfillment, and satiation, between whatever competing cultures are making claims on our loyalty. And that need makes him write Parzifal.

I’d tell you how all those issues are playing out with me on this trip (including more about the grottoes of Venus I’ve been visiting)...but this isn't that kind of blog! So let me instead show you a few pictures of the Wartburg! Here’s a photo of the castle up close:



Here’s the hall of song, where Act Two theoretically take place (actutally it took place in a less photogenic room downstairs, but the audience won’t know that):



And here’s the view from the ramparts, of the forest through which we pilgrims trod, with weary feet, as we ascended to the glorious heights. Set Act I Scene 2 and Act 3 in here somewhere!



One last thing to add about Thuringia: the beer is great, but I’m never going to be a fan of the bratwurst. On the other hand, it’s pretty easy to find decent Turkish food all over Germany, for very very cheap. And the Turks know from cooking!

Jon’s Midsummer Trip Dream

Today was Leipzig’s Stadt Fest, a big town festival, drawing unusual numbers of people to the usually crowded downtown of Leipzig, one of eastern Germany’s coolest cities. It was also a festival for local lesbians, who were holding court over in the university district; and Goths, seemingly from all over the country, descended on Leipzig like crebain from Dunland. The endless parade of people in black, many of them too overweight to pull off a successful ‘Goth’ look, reminded me of what I was reading this time last year: Seattle Opera was producing the Ring (like every tiny town in mittel Europa is right now) and there wasn’t a whole lot of prep work for me, since I’d done it before; so our Production Assisstant, the wondrous Marta Johnson, fed me, episode by episode, all of Neil Gaiman’s Sandman epic—a disturbing, disorganized, fascinating meditation, in comic book form, on the nature of dreams and stories. “I have had a dream—past the wit of man to say what dream it was.” And the other night, as I lay in the long grass under the elder tree on the banks of the Elbe, like Anselmus, I recalled his wondrous dreaming, and Richard Wagner’s, which began in the same spot but which was in a weird way real. Or at least, he somehow made it real.

My own dream—my film project, and unfortunately there are now two of them—is to build a structure where we can compare and contrast all these competing dreams, realities, and whatever else may or may not exist.

The idea has been in my head for a long time. Let me explain in more detail. Film operates very differently than theater; when you SEE things, even things which never existed, you know and believe them in a way you never can in the theater (what with suspension of disbelief and all). The sky turned round for me, on this topic, when I was 18 and first watched Zefirelli’s weird film of Otello. Although I’d make a different movie of this opera if I were doing it today, I was and still am blown away by the most simple and powerful trick in film—when a character is narrating something, go film it! Example: the first act ends with the awesome duet “Già nella notte densa,” in which the libretto recaps all the important stuff from the otherwise deleted Shakespeare’s Act One. Lots of stories—how Otello wooed Desdemona with stories, the content of those stories, how they fell in love. And Verdi’s music falls into the cracks between every word—the music acts out the stories and stories-within-stories for us, as it were. But onstage, in the theater, what you SEE is a tenor and soprano, usually kind of ridiculous and/or offensive looking, and maybe every now and then they’ll cup each other’s hands in that “squirrel paws” position which all opera singers seem genetically pre-determined constantly to do, and which I so abhor and revile. I’ve only ever once seen anyone do that in real life—and he’s now running for state congressman from my neighborhood.

What do we see in Zefirelli? All the stories! Including the ones they’re telling, ones in the Shakespeare first act, even stories Zefirelli obviously made up. But it’s brilliant. Not only does it give us something to look at—film is a visual medium and he’s a gorgeous filmmaker—it guves us MORE INFO about the characters and their story. A great story thoughtfully told, as I said before. Instead of distracting us with an irrelevant and annoying visual, which can sometimes happen in the theater. So—the obvious thing to do would be to film Wagner’s Ring à la Zefirelli, showing the audience what the characters are talking about whenever the Ring goes into one of its zillions of narrations. A nice idea, but it will never happen. There isn’t that much money in the world, and frankly, the resulting film would be unwatcheable. The Ring ought to be experienced live, in the theater. (Methinks theater directors might look at including film techniques and technologies in their arsenal of story-telling tools...) What we can do, however, is make a film about Wagner’s life—let’s get it out by 2013, the bicentenerary of his birth—and do a few spots from his operas, filmed à la Zefirelli, with the CG technical prowess of a Peter Jackson—and use the medium to show the tremendous gulf between the world of his imagination and the world in which he lived (and tried to make his dream come to life).

Brief digression over my second film project, hitherto unmentioned—it actually fits in really well right here. I think we should make a fancy Peter Jackson & Co special effects spectacular film on E. T. A. Hoffmann’s The Golden Pot, one of my all-time favorite stories, a story about this exact same issue, and not coincidentally one of Wagner’s favorite stories too. (Once, when no one was paying any attention to him at a party he was hosting, Wagner emitted a piercing shriek and then informed the assembled company that he was now going to read The Golden Pot—all 100 pages of it—to them out loud. Charming man!) The story concerns the strange adventure of the young Student Anselmus (think a youngish Johnny Depp in a Tim Burton film), who we find near the top of the story, sleeping, like Bottom, like me the other night, in the long grass beneath the elder tree on the banks of Dresden’s lovely Elbe at sunset. He falls hopelessly in love with three snakes, who appear in the grass and dazzle him; eventually, he gets a job copying out arcane texts in some language and alphabet he doesn’t understand, employed by the eccentric old town archivist (who turns out to be the spirit of phosphorous and father of the three snakes); embroiled in an all-out war between a Titania and Oberon type pair), he ends up imprisoned in a glass jar; and....well, you’ll see how it ends after we make the movie!

It’s a freakishly bizarre, wildly comic, soul-lifting, hair-on-the-back-of-your-neck-ruffling-with-a-sigh beauty of a story, all about what it means to be an artist. Anselmus has this strange epiphany—he doesn’t understand what happened to him, when he meets the snakes, all he knows is that everything else that’s ever happened to him in his life is insignificant in comparison with this experience. He has taken the first step on the road to being an artist. But the road is difficult, beset by obstacles and dangers (and weird helpers like the archivist’s parrot) and the ever-present danger of falling off the road, getting bottled and thus ceasing to be an artist (becoming a bureacrat, a functionary, an unknown citizen, a mere consumer). It’s a story which has to be read to be believed, and has to be made into a film if we are to see what we’re up against.

Or—we could just make the Wagner film. Because they tell the same story, and my guess is we might have an easier time raising money for a film about Wagner, whom many more people than me find fascinating.

The idea would be something along the lines of Topsy-Turvy, Mike Leigh’s brilliant recreation of the Victorian period and the creation of The Mikado (beginning with the debacle of their previous show, Ruddigore or Princess Ida or whatever it was). This film (title suggestions, anyone?) to follow the process of creating the Ring—a vast subject, so we’ll have to be careful to keep it to 2 hours. Example: it would be easy to do the Shaffer/Forman trick, from Amadeus, of cutting from footage of Barbara Brynne as Mozart’s annoying mother-in-law shrieking at him to a shot of the Queen of the Night chirping. I contend that every character in the Ring cycle has some parallel in the composer’s biography, and would be happy to talk your ear off explaining each and ever one of them. But in the end, I don’t think this would be all that interesting (although it certainly would take up a huge amount of screen time). It would vindicate Freud’s theory about all art being sublimation of neurosis—but this I’d really rather not do, because the magical thing to me is that Wagner’s neurosis caused him to create this art—which, two hundred fifty years later, speaks so beautifully and interestingly to me without my really knowing him or his neurosis. Again, to phooey with Freud, says I.

Far more interesting than the Freudian approach is discussion of one simple biographical fact: after the first performance of the complete Ring in 1876, at the end of the first-ever Götterdämmerung, Wagner refused to join the curtain call. He was thoroughly disgusted with the production, and according to his assistant director’s diary he sat in his dressing room fuming, cursing everyone involved in the ordeal and accusing them all of betraying him. “Next year, we’ll do everything differently,” he said, famously. Well, it never happened; after the first Ring summer he was so deeply in debt he never produced or heard it again. He only ever saw it once in his own life, his dream become reality—and he hated it. Reality, once again, had failed to live up to imagination.

I doubt this film will end there, on that endlessly depressing note; but it might be a great place to start. Then we’d go back and try to figure out how we got there; and then, conclude in some place in between dreams and reality—where life itself must exist.

Now, you Perfect Wagnerites out there reading me in blog-land are probably thinking, “Honestly, Jon...it’s been done.” (Well...not a Golden Pot film, to the best of my knowledge.) True, there have been Wagner bio-pics before now. I’ve only ever seen two: the endless Tony Palmer/Richard Burton thing from the early 80s, which I found wrong-headed and incredibly tedious; and an earlier one, one of the first feature-length German films, a silent movie about 75 minutes long filmed in the teens and starring a contemporary Italian composer who oddly resembled Wagner (the way Robert Powell looked like both Jesus and Gustav Mahler). To conclude an enormous (but crucial!) blog post, some thoughts about those films and what mine would do differently:

Silent Film. This is a wonderful document, restored and presented in Seattle recently by Paul Fryer. (The original music was lost, and I didn’t think much of the newly prepared soundtrack.) It was a hagiography from the pre-Hitler days of the Bayreuther Blätter, and as such incredibly entertaining if you know the real story and probably kind of dull if you don’t—all the outrageous behavior and self-destructive tendencies of this terribly flawed man were concealed, even though that’s precisely what an audience would find interesting. I loved this film for one particular feature, which I fully intend to steal: every time Richard Wagner sat down to write an opera, we cut to footage from a scene from that opera. He was sitting at his desk, for example, scribbling away with a sad look in his eye, and suddenly there were Wotan and Brünnhilde on the rock, tearfully saying their farewells. An old-timey, 1912 Wotan and Brünnhilde (something you can’t see anywhere today) with those absurd helmets and breastplates and all that hair. Yes—our 1912 film cut to scenes from the operas, as they looked in 1912! Which makes it a valuable historical document, although the reaction of a modern film audience will inevitably be: “Gee, they sure look goofy!”

Palmer/Burton Thing. It ended up being about 9 hours long; it didn’t make a lick of sense if you didn’t already know all about Wagner’s life; and frankly, the soundtrack was a disgrace. The great thing about the movie Amadeus, if you ask me—actually there are any number of great things about it, the great thing that’s relevant here—is that the music was treated as seriously as the picture. They got Neville Marriner in from the start of the project, story-boarded musical sequences, recorded every piece especially for the film, and the result was a new generation (I was 10 when that first came out) fell in love with Mozart. I don’t know much about the specifics of what Palmer did to get his music; it’s always sounded to me like he got rights from Decca London to use up to 3 minutes from any one of their Solti Wagner recordings, because we keep hearing the same few moments over and over again—Mime’s misery, Tristan’s wound, Ludwig’s Lohengrin-ish frenzy. There’s a moment or two where they filmed Peter Hofmann and Gwyneth Jones as Ludwig and Malvina Schnorr von Carolsfeld, I think, but really it was shocking the disregard that movie had for musical values. This is a movie about music! You start with the music and build your way backwards from there.

A couple of other things annoyed me about the Palmer film. Occasionally there was a narrator, who spoke in the first person—although I could never figure out who he was supposed to be, and he never gave helpful narration such as “Then Wagner and his wife had to cross the Baltic Sea to escape from creditors in Riga”, for example—instead, we see a low-budget boat-in-stormy-sea shot, and, since it’s out of sequence, if you don’t already know the story you’re hosed. The cast list was strong—too many British accents, if you ask me, since most of the characters are German or Swiss—but too many characters, and not enough set-up for each one.

And I’m sorry, but I really think Burton missed the point. He had all of Wagner’s repulsive qualities, but none of his charm and charisma—which must have been considerable—and none of his mania, which everyone who knew him found remarkable. Said Robert Schumann, another of Leipzig’s greatest sons: “For me, Wagner is impossible. There’s no doubt that he’s an intelligent person, but he never stops talking. You can’t talk all the time.” I imagine someone with the energy of Robin Williams in the role—a little out of control, scary/edgy, but entertaining. And I don’t think it’s worth making the film withough the right person in the role, an actor who might come close to this one-of-a-kind personality.

Seeking Richard. (For lack of a better title, we’ll go with the name of this blog.) This film will offer three things:
a) The imagination of Richard Wagner filmed with all the Peter Jackson fancy CG stuff we can get our hands on. Imagine our end of Götterdämmerung, visualized by Weta Workshop! Imagine the Siegfried Act 3 scene change, as Siegfried sounds his horn and ascends up into the fire—as the horn motif wrestles with the fire motif, we see Siegfried wrestling with a cool CG Loge (maybe he’s like Johnny Fire from Fantastic Four), like Jacob and the Angel, until finally Siegfried wins—only now his flesh is scorched, he is now touched by the fire god, and has become a sun good—thus Brünnhilde salutes him, “Heil dir, Sonne”. Thus the sun rises and sets in Götterdämmerung with his horn motif now made divine. Imagine the cameras spinning around the fjord and the ships as the Dutchman’s chorus competes with Daland’s; imagine the entry of the gods into Valhalla atop a real rainbow; imagine each of Kundry’s crazed flashbacks brought expressionistically to life. Like the Freudian find-the-art-in-the-neurosis temptation, the possibilities here boggle the mind.
b) But we’ll tame them, rein them in, by choosing ones we can then immediately juxtapose with the reality Wagner saw in his own theater; a filmed Siegfried scaring Mime with a CG bear, for example, followed by the grotesque and absurd charade you always see in the theater. And it will become very clear why he was so disappointed, at that first-ever Götterdämmerung.
And c) the most important point of all: I promise to tell a great story thoughtfully. The human story of what it took to create the Ring—the huge sacrifices made by Minna, Otto, Mathilde, Cosima, Hans, Ludwig, and others. What Peter Jackson showed me, in his astonishing film about that other Ring, is that no matter how fancy your CG must be, a good story is always about PEOPLE. There are some really interesting people in the story of the Ring’s genesis, and if we build a screenplay which forces the film to treat them as real people, we’ll have quite a tale to tell.